Sam's Learning Journey in Brazil! Part 2
Our fabulous young leader Sam Ward-Hardy has received a Winston Churchill Fellowship grant to travel to Brazil and study traditional and contemporary percussion. At only 18 years old when he stepped on the plane, he is the youngest Churchill Fellow this year. We're incredibly proud of him, and although he's only been there 7 weeks, the experience and his learning journey has been robust, intense, exhausting, and exhilarating.
Despite there being only 24 hours in a day, he is blogging like an absolute champ! While he is away I will host all of his blogs as he documents and photographs his learning. Here goes –
WEEK 4
So this week marks the end of my first month, which feels strange but exciting at the same time. I’ve had a crazy week in São Paulo travelling around meeting groups and individuals and seeing some fantastic performances aswell.
So on the Monday we had a pretty chill morning, buying some food for the week and planning the schedule for the day. Later I travelled to Centro Cultural Rio Verde to go and visit Os Capoeira, but because of the laws of Brazil I randomly found our friends from Banda Alana rehearsing with Bloco Me Lembra Eu Vu Que. It was great to see them and to hear their band play. I then had to leave and participate in the Os Capoeira workshop which was very different as while Me Lembra played more modern styles Os Capoeria used quite traditional grooves. I got to play Timbal and have my mind broke a tiny lil bit but was worth it. Then when I got home Bigato made us all some delicious pasta.
Tuesday was a lovely day that involved going on a nice walk to the Afro Museum in Ibirapuera park, it was super interesting with displays about the slave trade, black activists, jewellery, Maracatu, Candomble and many others. I then went to see Bangalfumenga’s rehearsal which interesting to watch as we got a see my friend Rodrigo lead a section of the group but we also got to see a community Bloco prepare and rehearse their set for Carnival. Next I had the pleasure of seeing a street performance hosted by the SESC Centre, it was called Son do Oestra which was heavily inspired by African culture, rhythms and dance.
The next day I spent 2 hours travelling to East São Paulo to visit Instituto Alana, when I finally got there I witnessed Banda Alana rehearsing for a performance they were going to do at the weekend and I was blown away by the musicality of all the young people and especially by the way they all had such kindness and respect for each other along with me and Bigato. We got to have lunch with them (the usual rice and beans) and Sivuca (who is the musical director of the group) made me speak Portuguese and told everyone else to aswell which was a real challenge since I’m still learning. I then joined in on the warm up for the kids group of Banda Alana busting out my dance moves (which were awful). I then got a lift back to the apartment from Sivuca. After resting I then headed out again to see the last part of a capoeira session run by Mestre Da Lua, Bigato even joined in using his Capoeira Angola against the Mestre’s Capoeria Original. It was fascinating to see the difference in the two styles and how they played off against each other which Angola being more ground focused and Original being more high and kick focussed. I then joined in the beginners Os Capoeira session which was brilliantly facilitated, playing some bell and tam. To end the night we saw some beautiful Roda de Samba with the leaders of Os Capoeira.
After the Wednesday I kind of felt Thursday should be more relaxed so spent the morning and afternoon doing just that. Later in the evening I went to see the amazing accordion player Mestreninho do a set with his crazy tight band who had the most dancey percussion section ever. I then went to the famous Augusta Street and had a lovely walk.
The Friday I was back on crazy schedule, travelling to Bixiga I met up with my friend David Silva and he introduced me to the Timbal section of Escola de Vai Vai who were incredible players. I even got to join in and learn some wicked chops. It was interesting to hear only one section practise the sing for carnival over and over again without anything else. I also learnt that Vai Vai are one of the few and maybe only group that properly arranges the Timbal into the songs and Bossas. I then went to see Unidos de Villa Maria’s rehearsal which was a spectacle to say the least, with large bateria, around 8 vocalists, an army of dancers and a huge space to work in which had wild designs and displays everywhere (even had a massive golden head!!).
On the Saturday I went to see Banda Alana’s performance and if I thought I couldn’t be more blown away I certainly was, it was exceptional and gave me goosebumps and I couldn’t stop smiling. All the young people were talented, passionate and excited which the audience fed off which made some go mental. It was lovely to see a project which acts a platform for young people to voice their opinions, express themselves and use music as a source of income, along with making some great dance moves. I just need to say well done to Sivuca and Adrianna for setting the project up. I then had an ice cream and ended the day by having a delicious burger.
The Sunday was a great day that started with a last big lunch at nice restaurant and led to us travelling Bixiga again to watch Vai Vai rehearse, I must say they were a rhythmical force of nature. I was shocked by the speed and force that the band played at while still maintaining a clean sound. The streets were full of people, drums and dancers despite it raining which I think added to the atmosphere. I then spotted the Timbal players I had worked with and realised they were playing the song I had been learning with them, it was great to see the whole song come together and to see how the Timbal played off the other instruments. We then ended the week with a massive pizza we ordered.
Overall this week has been bonkers, I’ve met so many different groups and people each so different but all of them amazing in their own right. São Paulo has been lovely to stay in and I’d love to come back during Carnival to see all the musical craziness on the streets. It’s been fantastic to see young people with such talent and I’ve had some really interesting discussions with the leaders of each group.
WEEK 5
This week has been a welcome change of pace, from running from event to event and waking up early every day I’m now semi relaxing in Bigato’s home city of Aracaju (I say semi because of course I’m still trying to drum as much as is humanly possible).
So on the Monday I woke up did the final bits of packing that I needed to do and made my way to the airport to catch a flight to Aracaju, the flight was delayed but after a 2 hour flight I arrived at the airport where Thailita was waiting for us with a car full of bags already and 2 dogs (who by the way are my new best friends). Making my way back to Bigato’s I was treated to a traditional north eastern dish. We then played Berimbau as the night crept in on us and finally I went to sleep, that is after I negotiated with one of the dogs to give me my bed back.
The Tuesday was super relaxing involving nothing but shopping and trying to get used to the intense heat. I also got to meet part of Bigato’s Maracatu group (mainly the young people). I got to play Atabaque and share some of my experience and technique with Bigato’s Atabque player is learning. I was reminded of home because the young people have some serious talent and are the core of the band. Talking with Bigato he also encourages them not to keep their opinions to themselves and to be vocal in the group.
On the Wednesday I woke up a 10:00 and had Agbê lesson with Thailita at Brazilian 10:00 (so around 11:00). I was pushed a lot as I had to learn to loosen my body, get the technique solid so I could make the sounds. I also learnt some more Timbal rhythms with Bigato before we cleaned the house. In the evening we travelled to the centre of Aracaju to do a gig for the cultural centre. I played Atabaque (I should clarify in Porto Rico they call a Timbal a Atabaque, I know it’s confusing!) and then watched part of Orquestra de Atabaque before left for Bigatos.
The next day I played so more Agbê and even learnt some dance moves which made it even harder. I was also able to tune my Berimbau properly for the first time which meant I had the opportunity to consolidate my learning. I then went for another Maracatu rehearsal but with the focus on the Atabaque and the caixa. I learnt some traditional grooves that Porto Rico use and learnt more about the caixa and how to swing the rhythm.
On the Friday I started the day with even more Berimbau however I do have some pretty bad blisters now and feeling in my little finger is naughty but a dream now. I spent most of the day chilling in Bigatos home, later in the day I however finally crack a Timbal phrase that David Silva has taught me and Bigato taught me some more Porto Rico Atabaque and even showed me some Candomble rhythms which are played on Ilu. We ended the day with some epic pizzas however I did remember that I forgot to practise Agbê so I apologised to Thailita who was very disappointed (I mean I did play it but only for like 10 seconds)
Saturday came along and was like a punch in the face in terms of activities. Waking up early I made my way to meet up with the young people of Bigatos group, we then went to a local school who were celebrating the event black conscience. We did a short performance and I even did a spontaneous workshop with some of the students and taught them a basic samba reggae which they then performed. Then in the afternoon I went to the main rehearsal of Bigatos Maracatu group learning in depth about Porto Rico technique surrounding alfia which was almost like a eureka moment and a lot of rhythms and things that Bigato has been showing me now make sense. Then in the evening we went to Bigatos sisters birthday party where I met his crazy family an friends, was forced to speak as much Portuguese as possible until my brain exploded and had Bigatos uncle trying to hook me up with Brazilian girls. Also the party was clown themed and Bigato dressed up as a clown, completely destroying that very serious leader persona he had before. I was also witnessed how much more musical and enthusiastic the Brazilian birthday song or songs are. Finally got back to Bigatos and collapsed in bed.
Then Sunday came along and I had such a chill day that I dare say it was like I was on holiday! Waking up relatively early I went to meet up with the young people and we all made our way to the river/ beach. I had a swim of course but I also paddled up and down the river on a surfboard which was amazing, however I did get really burnt. I then got back to the house and relaxed for rest if the day (I did practise Berimbau because needed some rhythm in the day). I then ended the day with a Brazilian style hot dog (sausage, ketchup, mayonnaise, cheese and crisps).
In summary this week has been an actual insight into what Brazilian life is like and I’m learning some much about the culture and the people. It’s been nice to be able to look in depth into Maracatu and Candomble but I’ve also enjoyed been able to consolidate what I’ve been learning over the course if my trip.
WEEK 6
My second week in Aracaju is over and I can safely say I’m starting to feel at home, I’m getting more used to the weather and because I’m spending so long here I’m getting into a routine.
So first of all my Monday was ultra relaxing, mainly staying at Bigato’s place and practising my Berimbau playing. In the evening the intensity was cranked up to 11 as I joined in a capoeira class in which I proceeded to sweat most of the liquid in my body out. That did mean I got an excellent nights sleeps however.
On the Tuesday I spent part of the day practising Berimbau and writing down the notes for the Mocidade tamborim parts which really hurt my head. In the evening I then made my way to play some Maracatu, learning more about viracão. I even went into a slight trance when I was playing which did lead me to maybe smash through the skin of the drum which was a shock!
The Wednesday began with a Agbê lesson in which I learnt many of the dances for the songs of Porto Rico while also trying to sing them and play Agbê. Fair to say that my mind had been pushed to the extreme. In the evening I went to meet with Bigato’s Capoeira group, this time working more on the music and songs. I got to play Berimbau and was pleasantly surprised by how much I had improved and I did shock many of his group even more so when I said I had only been playing for around 3 weeks. To end the day I made Brigadeiro which is condensed milk, chocolate and butter, basically it’s delicious and now I can make it.
On the Thursday I again had an Agbê lesson but this time it was for 2 hours! I was sweating by the end of the lesson but now I know a lot more songs and dances! Bigato then showed me a secret video of Porto Rico which opened up even more questions about the rhythms and also bowed me how the music had evolved. I then went out to a Cafe to watch a band play some music (in English which felt strange) however if I’m honest I spent most of the time drumming on the table trying to crack Bianco Livrie. We made our way to the riverside where there was a outdoor club of sorts, meeting some crazy people and listening to Brazilian club music.
On the Friday we made our way to Bigato’s parents house where I proceeded to have the biggest lunch ever with lost of meat! Even had lots of Brigadeiro for desert. I also got to know Bigato’s family more, learning that they are all crazy but intensely kind. I was then taken to the cultural museum of Aracaju, where they had some lovely exhibits and some really creepy puppets. Just outside there were also some amazing statues which all represented various different folkloric traditions some of which I had heard of but many I had not which demonstrated to me how the rich the culture of Brazil truly is.
The Saturday was a long day, starting at 8:00 in the morning, it began with travelling to the Maracatu rehearsal space where myself and members of the group fixed the drums. This involved patching together broken alfia skins, replacing the skins and snares of the caixa’s and learning a little trick involving string which meant the caixa’s sound great! I then spent an hour learning and recording Viracão with Bigato, that was then followed by a beginners workshop for his students which I led! It was scary but interesting due to the language barrier. I taught them technique and basic rhythms on the alfia’s which was then brought together with the caixa’s and Atabaque. We then moved into the regular session in which I played Atabaque, I learnt a new song and again went into a trance as the music became hypnotic. I then ended the day by overestimating how much I liked spice and burning my mouth with some Bahian chilli sauce!
And finally the Sunday, after waking up late due to the hectic day that was Saturday I went to the beach. I got to sit in the sun, swim in the ocean despite it been windy and I ate loads of crab, even learning how to break one apart. I also learnt from past mistakes and wore so much suncream! I then went to watch some great Roda de Samba which was been held in another local Capoeira school. The band had some great voices who sang beautiful songs and the audience danced so much. Afterwards I was taken to a famous ice cream shop and had some delicious ice cream.
In summary this week has been somewhat of a new experience because I’m starting to feel as if I’m not just visiting but living here and it’s a wonderful feeling. I’ve also had my mind melted by Viracão which I definitely getting the hang of now.
WEEK 7
So it’s definitely been my most relaxed week in Brazil, again really focussed on diving deeper into Maracatu and Candomble.
So on the Monday I mainly wrote down music that I had learnt from Portela and Os capoeira and even tried composing some music that is inspired by them. We then went to the supermarket and I realised that I have all the ingredients for bangers and mash, so I have promised to make Bigato and Thalita some along with Christmas dinner! In the evening I practised my Berimbau and played it while Bigato practised his capoeira.
On the Tuesday I learnt some more Candomble rhythms like Bata and Congo and also learnt which rhythms are used for which orixa, an example is that the rhythm of Aluja is played for Xangó. I then learnt a beautiful song in yourban and rehearsed into the night with Bigato’s groups. Later we went and had some delicious pizza and met up with some professional clowns and went to their house and had a lovely time.
The Wednesday involved me melting my brain again but this time trying to learn some new songs that I have fallen in love with from Porto Rico, mainly been the loa Meu Baque e Lento. Thalita was doing her best to teach me, I struggled with how fast it was but I’m getting better. In the evening we had a delicious Brazilian desert which as you can guess had condensed milk in it! I also watched a Brazilian documentary about Candomble.
My Thursday consisted of sitting in the sun while still trying to learn the loas of Porto Rico but this time while I played/ constantly tapped my legs which Bigato and Thalita joke about now because those of you who know me well are aware that I never stop... Bigato also gave me my own Geia, which is a necklace of protection in Candomble. He also told me that it had been involved in a ritual within Porto Rico so it was a very special moment for me to have this given to me as a gift.
On the Friday I went to sort out my Visa so I don’t get in trouble for the staying so long, I discovered how annoying Brazilian bureaucracy is as the only woman who could sort out my Visa arrived super late, then discovered needed to come back again to finalise it. I then got a haircut which was nerve racking if I’m honest but the hairdresser did a great job and now I feel so light! Later in the day Bigato took me to meet some of his friends for a little party and I ended up playing some Coco with them, it was a great night!
Then the Saturday came along and I may of overslept a bit and forgot that we had Maracatu all day so I hastily got ready. When I arrived at the centre where we have been practising me and Bigato played some Viracão while Baque Mulher practised. I finally cracked how to play and arrange Bianco Liveire. I then played Atabaque learning the Melé to Bata and Inché. I then led a beginners class for Bigatos students going over Luanda and Baque de Parada. I then had a full rehearsal with the entire band which was amazing as we played outside and I got to properly smack my Atabaque until my hands were literally numb. I danced and sang many songs but the two things I really enjoyed was seeing how my understanding of the rhythms had developed but also how the younger Atabaque player Will had been listening to my advice, he even reminded me of myself when I was learning as he watched me like a hawk and copied me. It was strange a feeling.
Finally on the Sunday I woke up really early and went out to help set up a market place for local artists which Thalita had helped to organise. Moving super heavy tables and decorating the place was hard especially when it was boiling hot. We then went to pick up the sound technician and we got to see his studio and his friend even showed me his sub bass Zabumba! As the day went on I mostly just watched as the market came alive and even went for a sleep in the car which was great! In the evening I then got to see Baque Mulher play a short set. For me it was great to see a woman’s Maracatu group but I found the reaction of the crowd even more moving as one of my friends called Goo Goo (don’t know how to spell I just say it like that) was brought to tears. With the sexism that exists in Brazil Baque Mulher is really important and the fact it has grown rapidly across Brazil is a testament to times changing for the better.
Overall I’ve enjoyed this week because I really feel that after 3 weeks of studying Maracatu and Candomble have paid off and I have a much deeper understanding of them both. It has also been nice to take part in the lives and work of the people I am staying with.
